We did some project work and cleaning up this morning, then grabbed some oranges, cookies, bread and juice from the café on the corner before walking up to the busy square in front of the Lacerda Elevator and eating as we waited for Pedro. We moved to the steps in front of the elaborate building which housed the Cultural museum and sat amongst other onlookers, grabbing an ice-cream when Pedro didn’t show for a while!
After messaging him he came and met us with Stef, his Canadian partner, and we got the Elevator down and jumped in a taxi from the harbour to Feira de São Joaquim, a local market Pedro had promised to take us to.
The market was almost magical, you entered a low-roofed, corrugated-iron covered maze of wooden stalls and box shops selling everything from exotic fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs, bottled oil, fresh meat and fish (pretty graphic stuff, not to mention the smell!) and everything miscellaneous like clay pots, wooden dolls and ropes of tobacco. Ollie and Step enjoyed walking round capturing the light as it came through the roof with their cameras, as well as occasionally stopping to ask a local sitting on a stool, having his hair cut, whether he was happy to have his photograph taken. Such are the barber shops!
We eventually out from the same entrance (somehow!) and the familiar smell of fried acarajé replacing that of cow’s eyeballs, sundried fish and other pungent nasal delicacies!!
We caught a taxi back to the Elevator and gave Pedro and gift of wine and a card to thank him for everything, just in case we didn’t see him again. Ollie and I walked back to the apartment and then went back out to a bar down our road, buying different flavoured caprihinas and manioc-flour-covered, hot black-eyed beans.