Today we got up early and walked in the opposite direction to old town/central Pelhourinho in order to wander around the area near Praça da Sé where Jorgé Amado based his famous novel, ‘Dona Flor and her two husbands’.
An area not exactly recommended for tourists persay, we darted through the markets well-known to us before getting into an even more local area. When we sat outside a café for breakfast / Ollie’s morning chocolate cake fix, a lady warned us to keep our belongings hidden and cameras away, which they were already! This definitely put us more on edge, and we finished up whilst watching the laughably ridiculous scenario play out in front of us, of a digger squeezing between two parked cars and knocking over wooden gates in the process!
We walked in the direction of the sea and down a quiet cobbled road with an incredible view of the harbour and docks, before being warned by a dustbin man to be careful and therefore we returned back to the roads we knew.
We returned to our apartment, packed our towels and swimming stuff, and caught a bus to our lovely Barra! We walked the strand that, as usual, was littered with keen joggers, and headed into the lighthouse (Faro) where there was a museum that we just hadn’t thought to visit whilst living here!
The museum was interesting with lots of seafaring equipment, giant lighthouse lamps and, in keeping with the times, giant electrical bulbs. All the information boards about Salvador as a major point for slave ships from Africa and attempted invasions via the port were translated into English, and after quietly taking in lots of information we climbed the stairs to the top of the lighthouse and admired the view from behind safety nets!
The weather was gorgeous, and we got ice-cream and coconut water and sat on the rocks in an enclosed area of beach that we had seen from higher up. The water was warm and the sun was setting as we swam and enjoyed the random currents pulling us everywhere – going to miss this!
After getting a bus back to Pelhouriho, we walked down to the church at the bottom of the square where Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado is and stood watching a very lively Candomblé service, before walking back to the bar areas near our apartment. (No, we still haven’t been to all of them!)
We sat on the open veranda of one and ordered probably the weirdest combination of food yet! What came was a huge block of grilled cheese on a raclette dotted with chunks of beef. I took the cheese and Ollie took the meat, well, we did our best anyway! We also got fried yam(?) slices which are basically the equivalent of chunky chips, had the same thing puréed(?!), then drank our caprinhas and were done with the day!