We launched into our action plan with gusto and got up early to start ticking off the locations we wanted. Unfortunately as soon as we left the flat I was hungry so we took a break from all the gusto and got Acai at a passing café for only R$7 each. Acai is essentially justifiable ice cream for breakfast. After our brief hiatus we wandered down our street towards the academy de lettres where we went right at the beginning of our trip for the Amado lecture. It was mostly closed up but we got some photos of the building and the Amado bust that sits in the ground. Then we crossed into Pelourinho, and popped into a café to make use of the loo. The café was deserted apart from a rather incongruous policeman, armed to the hilt of course, lounging in a chair. Rosie has noticed how they also don’t seem to have to pay for their food or drink. They’re still oddly terrifying.
We headed back to Rua Tabaou to see if the printing press was open. We had visited it on the walking tour, and Pedro had mentioned that the guys who ran it would be more than happy for us to pay a visit. We were delighted that it was, were welcomed in and told to make ourselves at home! One of the men demonstrated how all the machines worked, from the press, to the industrial guillotine to the typesetting bench, where they had a collection of letters of all sizes and styles. We spent about half an hour taking photos and watching the guys at work. It was definitely one of the most interesting places we have visited so far and were very happy with the results.
Walking around the corner to the model market we grabbed a drink upstairs, which is also one of the locations we wanted to photograph. We relaxed for a bit, taking notes and discussing the printing press. I went for a brief wander with my camera then, fully revitalised, we headed over to the bus station and caught a bus towards the Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim in Itapagipe. This particular church forms one focus of Tent of Miracles, where many key events happen. Inside it is particularly exquisite, however the surrounding area was again quite poorly maintained. There was a particularly odd room in the church where the ceiling was entirely covered by wax heads, legs and arms. It’s now on our list of things to look up! After our brief visit we (eventually) found a bus back, stopped off at the apartment to drop our stuff then headed out to our final destination, the second-hand book stores. As it was quite late many of the shops were shut, but we happened on a store that had a small set of steps leading down. Despite its outside appearance the shop was huge, and the owner (who ran it with his family) was very kind and chatty, having studied english at medical school. We wandered happily for a while, and then found a great section on Jorge Amado where we enviously went through the collection before settling on a couple to buy, including a Gabriella first edition! Thanking the owner we left and headed towards Terrerio de Jesus for dinner. The restaurant we wanted to go to was shut and so ended up in an almost pub-like place that specialised in ‘infusions’, essentially shots with a massive range of flavours. We tried cherry and mango infusés with some shrimp (of course) before cabbing home and sleeping after a productive day!