Dia 23 – Ice-cream and shrimp. (:Rosie)

Today was another planning day. Having previously arranged and failed to meet up with the Masters student that Professor Elizabeth Ramos from UFB had put us in contact with, we decided to stay around and meet André for definite this time.

We woke up at 7.15am because, like ignorant tourists, we had accidentally organised to collect our laundry at 7.30am instead of 7.30pm the night before, as we had previously thought. I stayed at the apartment and did some blogging whilst Ollie collected our clean (yay!) clothes. Then we both cleaned up the place a bit in order to discourage our unwelcome house guests (tiny ants…) and headed back out to central Pelhourinho town in the morning sun.

The first stop on our list was to try and find Zumbi dos Palmares Street, which we had decided not to visit with Pedro because of safety reasons. He had, however, recommended that we go in the late morning on a weekday, so we walked down Avenue José Joaquim Seabea (the main road which marks the transition between tourist-town and reality for the locals) and up said street. We found it, and got out our copies of Jubiabá, relating the short street of three-storey houses we saw to the street down which Lindinalva (a fairly wealthy, white girl who observes goings on from her house balcony and is a romantic interest for the protagonist) lives.

We then walked to the historical district where we collected our bus tickets for the National Park from the Travel Agency, and rewarded ourselves for a productive morning with lunch at our beloved Rango Vegan.

We decided to pop back to the apartment and finish some more blogs before heading back to the Lacerda Elevator in order to meet André. We enjoyed people watching at the ice-cream café there, and when André arrived (interesting when neither party really knows what the other looks like!) we sat and chatted about his interest in the American translation of Jorgé Amado’s ‘Tent of Miracles’. He told us about some key cultural aspects that he looked into as potential problems for other nationalities to read such as candomblé (the very secretive, specifically Bahian religion), capoeira (the dance-like martial art) and typical Brazilian food, drink and customs.

He offered to take us round the town and told us some interesting anecdotes about places we were now very familiar with, such as the street where the fictional Tent of Miracles was based. At number 60, however, was the printing press Pedro had taken us to on the Free Walking Tour, and we planned to visit this thinking that it was probably the main inspiration for the printing press in the novel.

After getting ice-cream back at the Elevator, we said goodbye and walked back to the apartment. After some more reading and blogging, we both got too cramped up and went to a bar round the corner to have a chilled chat and break from the project! The caprihinas were most welcome, and we decided to be daring and order whatever the daily Special was, and another random fish dish. So it turns out Camarão is shrimp, and we were presented with an imprssive sharing platter! A first for me, and something Ollie isn’t that with familiar with either, we were pleasantly surprised and demolished the plate!

Happy and full, we headed back, watched some Tim Minchin and fell asleep.

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